Travel tips in Karnataka.

1. Do carry an identification with you. You will not be harassed for one except for occassional instances of any terrorist activities or any bombing nearby or a regular police check to loot some money. Make a copy of your documents preferably scan - so that you can access them online.

2. Avoid water and food in most places except if you are pretty sure, place looks neat and clean for your standards.

3. Their have been travel advisories from the US embassy against travel to India with regards the dowry(498a) and POTA laws. Just read about them - 'cos the onus of proof is on you and arrest is done on mere allegations.

4. Never discuss or reveal your travel plans and avoid travelling at night alone.

5. Keep money in multiple pockets rather than in 1 place.

6. Carry some mosquito repellants and medications.

7. Learn to bargain. If the price is Rs.150 ask for Rs.15 and see the reaction. You might most probably get it for that price.

8. Most people understand english in India. Maybe you will need to make signs and change accent a little bit.

9. If you are a woman - then stick to the routine, avoid males, dress seasonally, nothing revealing, smoke in cities - never in villages, take a friend if you happen to go to the pub, read the rape laws and complaint procedures.

10. Above all - travel requires preparation and the more prepared you are - the better you will enjoy your stay. Browse the internet. Everything is documented. Just some home work.

Chintamani, Chickkaballapur.

Take a left from Hosakote and around 70 kms from Bangalore is Chintamani. The town doesnot sound like the usual weekend getaway but has it's own interesting places. 2-3 kms away from Chintamani town is the hill named Ambajidurga.

Chintamani is the tomato capital of Karnataka. I have heard stories that when tomato prices fluctuate and crash - the farmers dump the tomatoes on the street and walk away in frustration.

It has a cave temple being built by the local politician and folks. Though there are no eateries near the cave temple, the temple gives free meals and accepts donations. Nearby school children come here for the meals. Free up that wallet and donate with a smile. There is another place called Murugumalla which has a perennial spring but I did not get a chance to visit this place which is 10 km from Chintamani town. Chintamani is also famous for Chaakli chaat which is very spicy and not for the faint hearted. Lime soda with ginger and variety of combinations. They have very unique snacks and brings a smile. They also have dosa and lemon rice in it. Wash it down with the midget mangos which are unique to Kolar and Chintamani.

A few kilometers away is an ancient temple. It is believed that this was the place, called Ekachakradhipura, where the Pandavas spent a year during their Agnyaathavaasa (The Pandavas had lost a bet and had to hide so that none recognize them).

Some very nice sculptures here. It is beleived that a demon used to harass the villagers and if the bullock cart of food was not sent everyday.

Eventually when the pandavas came, they killed the demon and are beleived to have spent a couple of years in this area.

Nice way to spend the day and in the evening you could buy some vegetables cheap and head home.

There is a College of Sericulture (Silk) near Chintamani if you are interested or know of any one interested in production, manufacture etc.. of silk.

The Curse of Talakadu, Mysore.

The curse is as follows:

Let Thalakaadu become a land of sand,

Let the river at Maalangi turn into a whirlpool,

Let there be no sires to the Mysore kings।

Alemelamma before her death uttered this curse - Kannada version : “Talakadu managali, Malangi madwagali, Mysooru arasarige makkalu aagadirali”. Above is the translation and is very spooky in the video with link given below.
I do not know the intricate details about what happened. Though I will admit that it was the whirlpool that drew me to this ancient civilization buried in sand. This curse is one fascinating one and looks very real for all the reasons archaeologists hav not been able to explain convincingly.

For the time being it is the curse of the Govt of Karnataka by way of their upkeep of the state/district highways. Though Karnataka has a rich and ancient history the present government or previous governments seem like they do not have any stake in the tourism potential of the state. This is evident with the apathy by way of roads, amenities and information facilities to tourists.

Here is the Chola ring carved out of a single stone and in the past all four sides to the temple had it but due to constant hangin around and swinging on it they broke and only one is left. There is also a board that says do not touch the rings. :-)
There are no proper roads to talakadu and it is very close to Somanathapura (Hoysala architecture - grand 3rd temple)। Miah mow I was impressed with the sand that covers 10 sq km and buries around 30 odd temples. You can maybe solve the mystery of the curse and to start with - read all about the >scientific explanation .

Watch this video about talakaadu. It is on archaeology channel. If you were wondering why no one was bothering about the contract for sand mining - check this news out -- > Two lorries which were involved in sand mining were seized about a couple of days ago in Talakadu. It was found that a huge pipeline laid under water is used in extracting the sand. Voluntarily, we will going to High court after preparing the report, said Hegde.

Blissful Somnathapura, Mysore. (Keshava Temple)

Whatever this means. I did not understand this postal message one for sure.

Somehow seeing these sculptures provides a mystic & often thought provoking outlook on my life. Located 180 kms from Bangalore (bengaluru) the last 20 kilometers is called 'pathetic'.

The road has some picturesque paddy and sugarcane fields. It will take an hour or so to just get there. Onward journey we had taken the Mysore road all the way to Maddur and then there are a couple of deviations to reach Somnathapur. Most hindu temples have erotic sculptures and depictions. According to Hinduism, sexuality and fertility are considered important. Hence, marriage(husband-wife relation) is given a lot of importance. However, with the new age laws and present day rituals of modern society; I would not be surprised that the younger generation place lesser importance to it.

There is a lake which also serves as a bird sanctuary. Our return journey was via talakadu and we took the NH via Kanakapura. This is a shorter route (150 kms) but not as good as the state highway to Mysore.

It is the best maintained temple I have ever seen in Karnataka. Other ASI sites should learn how to maintain and should serve as an example. Whoever is incharge deserves appreciation from the well kept and manicured lawns in front of the temple. Again "Well Done" in keeping the place the way it deserves to be kept.

Erotic depiction of everyday life. There are inscriptions engraved on a slab standing at the entrance, inside the temple, dated from 12th century that detail the construction and grants made to it.Reflecting the Hoysala style of architecture it has 3 sanctums and all connected. It is ornately carved temple of extraordinary craftsmanship.

The ceilings and door jambs to the sanctum sanctorium are exquisitely sculpted and noteworthy.

The ceilings depict according to the guide the different stages of budding of flowers and fruits.
There are 64 cells which were meant to house other demi gods engraved with precious stones but you will find that it only houses broken or disfigured images and sculptures which are all locked. Apparently the British had looted this place a long time ago. You could peek in though. With all the disfigurement the sculptures are magnificient.

The temple was built from softer soap stone which became harder from being exposed to the atmosphere. Thanks but no thanks to the British munificence who looted some sculptures and the original deities are with some collectors in Britain. If they are human they would return it to their original place. There is no Pooja (mangala arti) done in this temple because in Hindu tradition once a image is defaced or violated - in this case, thanks to the British; pooja is not done.
Carvings of everyday life, erotica, elephants in the bottom band, then horses, people (meaning epic stories), makaras {the makara is a mythical creature with the features of seven different animals, viz., the legs of lion, body of a pig, mouth of a crocodile, trunk of elephant, cow’s ears, monkey’s eyes and a peacock tail } and deities. It is star shaped and I would have loved to get a glimpse at a top angle.

The place is absolutely calm in and around the temple. Also, a newly built, elegant looking and much needed information centre is not yet opened. This has very good potential to be an UNESCO site. Just hope they take care of the garbage management once the road is done.

Hyun Tsangs visit to somanathapura in the sculptures.

BULL TEMPLE and Dodda Ganesha, Bangalore.

The Basavanagudi BULL temple is famous for the monolithic image of the Bull. Built during the Kempe Gowda era, the black stoned bull is rugged and feared official carrier of Lord Shiva. On every Makar Sankranti (14th January) the sun rays pass through the two horns of Nandi and illuminate the lingam which is inside the temple.
Legend has it that the area around the temple is known as Sunkehahalli which was populated by the groundnut farmers. A farmer found a mighty bull grazing on the well grown crop. Enraged by this he hit the bull with his club. The bull sat astounded and was quickly transformed into a stone statue. The farmers of the place were shocked and to atone for the harsh deed decided to build a temple of the bull. But to their surprise they saw the bull growing taller and taller. Then the worried farmers prayed to the Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva advised them to retrieve a trident buried some feet away from the now stone bull and to place it on its forehead. When the farmers did as advised, the stone bull stopped growing. As homage the farmers then decided to offer their first crop of groundnut to the sacred Bull. This practice continues till this day and is know as Kadalekayi Parishe, or the groundnut fair. This fair is held annually in the month of November. This story explains why the statue of Bull has a trident on the forehead, though all said and done it is a mythological explanation without any historical backing.
A river or a tributary called vrishabavati originates from under the Bull it seems. Years back there was a pond but nowadays only the older folks know this story. The water is part of a drainage system now. Also, legend has it that the BULL is growing year over year. The big BULL TEMPLE looks like the back side of the bull faces Linga (Lord Shiva). In actuality there is a Shiva about 100 meters away.

The bull temple entrance has a Dodda Ganesha temple which is fabulous and is buttered on some days (Benne Alankara) and looks white. For Rs 10k you can do it too. Here is the photo of the rates. A picture of Beddara Kanappa who loses his eyes as a sacrifice to Lord Shiva. Ultimately he donates his second one and as to know the location when he removes his second eye he keeps his foot on the lingam to place his second eye. Lord Shiva is so impressed by this hunter that he reveals himself to him in the end.

Lal Bagh, South bangalore.

We went late evening. A sunset view of Lal bagh from Kempe Gowda Tower. Review the map and see where you want to stroll. I think if you have around 3-4 hours you can have a walk around entire Lal Bagh. Very nice place for early morning and evening walks.

Entry is free in the mornings from 6-9 am and also in evenings from 5.30-7pm and at other times it is Rs 10 per person. The first site is of a lake and trees all around. No boating - the authorities know plastic is going to be thrown in the lake.
A Maharajah Statue is installed. Looks very nice but no signs as to who it is. It must be either Hyder Ali or Tipu Sultans statue.

These are called Paneer fruit and if you get a chance taste them. They come in smaller sizes too. I liked it. 5 fruits for Rs10.

The glass house was built to provide a sequestered locale for flower shows. It was built in 1889 to commemorate the visit of a Prince to bangalore and designed on the lines of the crystal palace of London.
This botanical garden spread over 240 acres also hosts one of the 4 towers erected by Kempe Gowda marking the outer most limits of how much Bangalore was predicted to expand. :-) The rock terrain million of years old is recognised by the Geological Survey of India as a Peninsular Gneiss. Most have no clue about the millions year old rocks and focus on the tower. Some very old trees and greenery in the midst of such haphazard traffic. Surprisingly you dont find too many brids though there are signs of "Birds of LalBagh". There is a horticulture department and they do sell some plants. Lal bagh is also the place to book your travel lodges anywhere in Karnataka.

Nice place if you want to stay in Bangalore for weekend and relax. I have heard recently that the metro rail is going to pass through this garden. I have no problem as long as they dont fell any trees.
There is Dove cot. This peculiar building hosts Doves I am guessing.

Begur Temple and Fort

You can reach Begur by making a right from Hosur Road at Bommanahalli. This is just a km after the flyover. You pass through Hogasandra. Keep travelling 10 minutes and you will see the temple. Close to the temple is also a fort.
It is surprising that everywhere they say Begur is a more than 1000 year temple and yet there is no sign of the Archaeological Society of India declaring it as a protected monument.
Work is going on in terms of 4 mandapams being built. A picture of the artisans can be seen here.
The temple itself is beautiful BUT neglected and willfully looks abandoned with an encroached lake in front.
The temple is locked except for a few hours in the morning and evenings.Special days are on Karthika Somvara (Oct-Nov), Navarathri Festival (Oct-Nov), Utsava Moorthi (Festival Idols), Ugadi, Sri Rama Navami and Shankara Jayanthi. Talk of an inscription dating back several years ago where Bengaluru derived its modern name drew us here. However, we saw no such inscription. It must be inside the temple. The nandi and a few sculptures are priceless here. Some hieroglypics depicting everyday ancient life can also be observed.The lions tail is more like a monkeys. What is inbetween it's front feet ? I like the last one showing cattle and livestock. Read a detailed description of the Begur temple here. It has some interesting read but is rather exhaustive in its description. I would go here early mornings or evenings when temple is open or else be prepared to just while away your time and swat some flies if any come by. As in all temples they say there are energy zones where when stood or seated will revitalize, have positive attributes, helps in mental peace, protection from enemies, diseases, skin problems, spiritual enhancement and protection from black magic etc.

Cauvery Fishing Camp, Bheemeshwari.

An ideal getaway from Bangalore which is 2 hours drive and around ~100 kms. The road is nice.

You could take the road to kanakapura-santhanur-muthathi-cauvery fishing camp. There is a jungle lodge which you need to book in advance and the prices range from Rs 1000- 3000. The ideal place to cool in the water. For going to Shivanasamudra you have to go back to Sathanur and then go which is 25kms from Sathanur.

Angling for mahseer fish is famous here. These fish are so smart that when we got one using a towel, the fish played dead. You need to get your own fishing gear. They are the largest tropical sporting fish. This one is small but they become really big.

Some people call it the Bheemeshwari Fishing Camp because of the temple.

Wildlife is abundant and we got to see some deer towards dusk on their way to cauvery for some water.

You could rent some vessels and buy some firewood if you want to cook something. There are no places to eat except for some small shops where the villagers cook rice and sambar. They would cook some chicken given 30 minutes. Ideal place for some relaxed stuff, quaff beer, barbecue and chill time.