May 26, 2009

Blissful Somnathapura, Mysore. (Keshava Temple)












Whatever this means. I did not understand this postal message one for sure.
Somehow seeing these sculptures provides a mystic & often thought provoking outlook on my life. Located 180 kms from Bangalore (bengaluru) the last 20 kilometers is called 'pathetic'.
The road has some picturesque paddy and sugarcane fields. It will take an hour or so to just get there. Onward journey we had taken the Mysore road all the way to Maddur and then there are a couple of deviations to reach Somnathapur. Most hindu temples have erotic sculptures and depictions. According to Hinduism, sexuality and fertility are considered important. Hence, marriage(husband-wife relation) is given a lot of importance. However, with the new age laws and present day rituals of modern society; I would not be surprised that the younger generation place lesser importance to it.

There is a lake which also serves as a bird sanctuary. Our return journey was via talakadu and we took the NH via Kanakapura. This is a shorter route (150 kms) but not as good as the state highway to Mysore.
It is the best maintained temple I have ever seen in Karnataka. Other ASI sites should learn how to maintain and should serve as an example. Whoever is incharge deserves appreciation from the well kept and manicured lawns in front of the temple. Again "Well Done" in keeping the place the way it deserves to be kept.
Erotic depiction of everyday life. There are inscriptions engraved on a slab standing at the entrance, inside the temple, dated from 12th century that detail the construction and grants made to it.Reflecting the Hoysala style of architecture it has 3 sanctums and all connected. It is ornately carved temple of extraordinary craftsmanship.
The ceilings and door jambs to the sanctum sanctorium are exquisitely sculpted and noteworthy.
The ceilings depict according to the guide the different stages of budding of flowers and fruits.
There are 64 cells which were meant to house other demi gods engraved with precious stones but you will find that it only houses broken or disfigured images and sculptures which are all locked. Apparently the British had looted this place a long time ago. You could peek in though. With all the disfigurement the sculptures are magnificient.
The temple was built from softer soap stone which became harder from being exposed to the atmosphere. Thanks but no thanks to the British munificence who looted some sculptures and the original deities are with some collectors in Britain. If they are human they would return it to their original place. There is no Pooja (mangala arti) done in this temple because in Hindu tradition once a image is defaced or violated - in this case, thanks to the British; pooja is not done.
Carvings of everyday life, erotica, elephants in the bottom band, then horses, people (meaning epic stories), makaras {the makara is a mythical creature with the features of seven different animals, viz., the legs of lion, body of a pig, mouth of a crocodile, trunk of elephant, cow’s ears, monkey’s eyes and a peacock tail } and deities. It is star shaped and I would have loved to get a glimpse at a top angle.
The place is absolutely calm in and around the temple. Also, a newly built, elegant looking and much needed information centre is not yet opened. This has very good potential to be an UNESCO site. Just hope they take care of the garbage management once the road is done.
Hyun Tsangs visit to somanathapura in the sculptures.

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