Lepakshi, Anantapur, Andhra pradesh, (140 kms).

We took NH7 on an idle weekend enroute Hyderabad via Devanahalli [ Yeah - the BIAL fame]... it took us 140KMs to reach Lepakshi, Ananthapur Dist.

Most captivating sight was the impression of Sita devi's right foot [ I heard left foot landed in Kandy in Srilanka ].

The kalyana mantapam, remnants of a once beautiful courtyard. The temple is situated on a hillock and the flooring has been left untouched.

Another view of the temple kalyana mantapam.
The naga linga was supposed to have been carved out by a man in an hour. The mother of the sculpturor was so fascinated that her third eye (dhristhi) fell on this impeccable sculpture that it cracked immediately. Since in Hindu culture a broken image was not be worshipped - the king made alternative arrangements to install the Lingam.

Some impressive sculptures. All are monolithic which are different from the temple sculptures found in the south especially in Karnataka which have many pieces sewn together.

The suspended pillar in another view - full view. The suspended pillar can be seen resting on the right side after a British man who couldnot contain his curiosity and stupidity tried vainly to trace the method adopted of suspension and in the melee dislodging the precariously suspended pillar.

Durga devi embedded in the pillar itself and worshipped. During days of large gatherings a mirror reflecting the image is used to serve larger interest of public.

A painting on the ceilings of the temple. Many paintings reportedly by many distinct and well known painters of the era can be witnessed here.

One of the stories that do the rounds is that the painters wanted to outdo the sculptors but failed to make an impression. The administrator was so unconvinced about the tall claims that he commissioned a new set of painters and banished the local painters from the capital.

The nandi faces the Lingam on the naga lingam side. Once there was a clear view - but over time this view can still be see unobstructed but for human settlements.

Travel tips in Karnataka.

1. Do carry an identification with you. You will not be harassed for one except for occassional instances of any terrorist activities or any bombing nearby or a regular police check to loot some money. Make a copy of your documents preferably scan - so that you can access them online.

2. Avoid water and food in most places except if you are pretty sure, place looks neat and clean for your standards.

3. Their have been travel advisories from the US embassy against travel to India with regards the dowry(498a) and POTA laws. Just read about them - 'cos the onus of proof is on you and arrest is done on mere allegations.

4. Never discuss or reveal your travel plans and avoid travelling at night alone.

5. Keep money in multiple pockets rather than in 1 place.

6. Carry some mosquito repellants and medications.

7. Learn to bargain. If the price is Rs.150 ask for Rs.15 and see the reaction. You might most probably get it for that price.

8. Most people understand english in India. Maybe you will need to make signs and change accent a little bit.

9. If you are a woman - then stick to the routine, avoid males, dress seasonally, nothing revealing, smoke in cities - never in villages, take a friend if you happen to go to the pub, read the rape laws and complaint procedures.

10. Above all - travel requires preparation and the more prepared you are - the better you will enjoy your stay. Browse the internet. Everything is documented. Just some home work.

Belur, Hassan.(230Kms from Bengaluru.)

There are several ways to get to belur temple. The temples are very finely carved and a real beauty. The belur temple is the largest of the 3 temples that the Hoysala kings built. The route to get there is simple. Take the Hassan road towards Hassan and a fine road emerges all the way to Belur town. Bengaluru-(NH4)Nelamangala-(NH48)Kunigal- Chanarayapatna-Hassan-(SH57)Belur.
The rogue parking monkeys will rob you off Rs 30 for parking saying it is panchayat fees. Wonder what is wrong with those people and what services they are providing for parking to charge such a high sum.
Make a complaint at the municipal office at the end of the road.
The temple courtyard is large and spacious. The inside of the temple has some spectacular carvings and there is a charge of Rs10 for the man to focus the lights on the ceilings. A very nicely carved pillar next to the sanctum sanctorum.

Outside are 42 madanika images and each sculpture has the sculptors name inscribed on it.

One of them is the darpana sundari.

A very large pillar supported by its own centre of gravity and weight is a sight to watch.
The temple has its regular friezes and intricate sculptures a trademark of the Hoysala empire. The darpana sundari sculpture is famous over here for its work as also the other madanika images. It was raining that day and the picture doesnot justify the pose. Out on the streets you will get the whole madanika kit.

Before you get to the Belur temple is the Lakshmi Devi temple at Doddagaddavalli. The temple is done up well. You will see a rather large signboard from the main road. Go 1-2 kms in and you will see this rather abandoned temple. Built by a trader and not as grand as the Belur or halebid temple.

The one distinguishing aspect of the temple are the large Betala figures guarding the deity. The betalas are demonic living corpses. Found it eery maybe 'cos there was no one else in the temple. The back side has a scenic lake which complements the temple.
You will need to get the key to the temple if you are going at odd hours from the neighbouring house adjacent to the temple. Read more here.

Food @ Haleebedu - 1km on way to Belur, Hassan.

I just wanted to add this new section because many people refuse or have apprehensions to have food at smaller joints while travelling; and, seem to be missing the good food that these people make. I happenned to come across one on my way to Belur temple from Haleebedu, a kilometer away. I am posting the name of the place and the sumptuous food they served.

The name of the restaurant is "Sri Pushpagiri Hotel" run by Masale spices professor Shekhar. You get a papad served first. Then a brown ragi ball shown in the left. FYI: All are very bland and donot expect anything spicy. This is the local food. There is potato gravy, a salad and horse gram. You also get a horse gram gravy for the rice. This food is supposed to keep the labourers full of carbohydrates to last the tough conditions in the paddy fields. You get some curd and buttermilk too.

All this @ a reasonable cost of Rs.20 for a meal. We thought it would be a little higher. The place is much cleaner than it looks inside. This is the board that shows the restaurant. Anyway, I enjoyed the food. Please use your own judgement.

You can also try the plate idli(rice dumplings) that is served on the Bangalore- Mysore Road and most places in Karnataka with chutney.

Plenty of jackfruits in Karnataka. If you love this fruit and if you want to read how to cut them or what is edible - check this link.

Big Banyan Tree

The 400 year old Big Banyan Tree is located in Ramohalli, Chunchana Kuppe, Bangalore South on the Bangalore - Mysore Road just after Kengeri.
The tree is fenced off and there is no tickets or entry. There is a temple which is beleived to be very powerful to all those who are blessed with being manglik - and to get the dosh out of you. So, if you are yet to be married - this is one place to visit to get the curse out of your life.

Too crowded for a day out but you could for a drive stopping by the many rose farms on the way.

You should be able to find the place by making a right before the RajaRajeshwari hospital on the main Bangalore - Mysore Road. Very nice road. You could follow the same road to manchanabele dam which is a couple of kilometers from the big banyan tree site. I would add that the banyan tree is crowded and you could spend more time at the dam site.

Chintamani, Chickkaballapur.

Take a left from Hosakote and around 70 kms from Bangalore is Chintamani. The town doesnot sound like the usual weekend getaway but has it's own interesting places. 2-3 kms away from Chintamani town is the hill named Ambajidurga.

Chintamani is the tomato capital of Karnataka. I have heard stories that when tomato prices fluctuate and crash - the farmers dump the tomatoes on the street and walk away in frustration.

It has a cave temple being built by the local politician and folks. Though there are no eateries near the cave temple, the temple gives free meals and accepts donations. Nearby school children come here for the meals. Free up that wallet and donate with a smile. There is another place called Murugumalla which has a perennial spring but I did not get a chance to visit this place which is 10 km from Chintamani town. Chintamani is also famous for Chaakli chaat which is very spicy and not for the faint hearted. Lime soda with ginger and variety of combinations. They have very unique snacks and brings a smile. They also have dosa and lemon rice in it. Wash it down with the midget mangos which are unique to Kolar and Chintamani.

A few kilometers away is an ancient temple. It is believed that this was the place, called Ekachakradhipura, where the Pandavas spent a year during their Agnyaathavaasa (The Pandavas had lost a bet and had to hide so that none recognize them).

Some very nice sculptures here. It is beleived that a demon used to harass the villagers and if the bullock cart of food was not sent everyday.

Eventually when the pandavas came, they killed the demon and are beleived to have spent a couple of years in this area.

Nice way to spend the day and in the evening you could buy some vegetables cheap and head home.

There is a College of Sericulture (Silk) near Chintamani if you are interested or know of any one interested in production, manufacture etc.. of silk.

Migratory birds @ Kokkare Bellur

Kokkare Bellur is a village off the Bangalore-Mysore road about 85 kms from Bengaluru. The last stretch which is 12 kms is rough. Driving past extensive paddy and sugarcane (bellur) fields is a treat. It is mistaken for a bird sanctuary which it is NOT.

The villagers venerate these colorful spotbilled pelicans, and storks who come to nest during January-June months. They are also paid by the Government of Karnataka @ 200 Rs - Rs 500 per tree the birds live on. I reminiscence my childhood where early mornings and evenings were filled with the caw-caw's of the crows and the chirping of sparrows, now replaced with the tak-tak of local music from the temples. Where did the birds go ?
The colorful ones are the parents and the black and white's are the new born chicks. The parent birds feed of Kanva Resevoir, Somanathapur lake and other spots for fish to bring back to the new born chicks. There is still abundant fish available nearby (100-200 kms) streams, reservoirs, cauvery, bengaluru hebbal lake and ponds.
You need to get there early morning or late evenings for a good view - you could get a view of the chicks if you are going mid-day. Evenings will bring back flocks of these. Just make sure you are not underneath them - for the droppings are messy. Locals say that these birds bring back fish weighing as much as 5-8 kgs for the chicks. The chicks themselves grow fast and are big enough to weigh 3-4 kgs atleast. You will see them mostly on tamarind trees and the yellow flowered trees. Fill your tank and get your own food. Shimsha river flows through closeby meaning 1/2 km from the nesting site.

The Curse of Talakadu, Mysore.

The curse is as follows:

Let Thalakaadu become a land of sand,

Let the river at Maalangi turn into a whirlpool,

Let there be no sires to the Mysore kings।

Alemelamma before her death uttered this curse - Kannada version : “Talakadu managali, Malangi madwagali, Mysooru arasarige makkalu aagadirali”. Above is the translation and is very spooky in the video with link given below.
I do not know the intricate details about what happened. Though I will admit that it was the whirlpool that drew me to this ancient civilization buried in sand. This curse is one fascinating one and looks very real for all the reasons archaeologists hav not been able to explain convincingly.

For the time being it is the curse of the Govt of Karnataka by way of their upkeep of the state/district highways. Though Karnataka has a rich and ancient history the present government or previous governments seem like they do not have any stake in the tourism potential of the state. This is evident with the apathy by way of roads, amenities and information facilities to tourists.

Here is the Chola ring carved out of a single stone and in the past all four sides to the temple had it but due to constant hangin around and swinging on it they broke and only one is left. There is also a board that says do not touch the rings. :-)
There are no proper roads to talakadu and it is very close to Somanathapura (Hoysala architecture - grand 3rd temple)। Miah mow I was impressed with the sand that covers 10 sq km and buries around 30 odd temples. You can maybe solve the mystery of the curse and to start with - read all about the >scientific explanation .

Watch this video about talakaadu. It is on archaeology channel. If you were wondering why no one was bothering about the contract for sand mining - check this news out -- > Two lorries which were involved in sand mining were seized about a couple of days ago in Talakadu. It was found that a huge pipeline laid under water is used in extracting the sand. Voluntarily, we will going to High court after preparing the report, said Hegde.

Blissful Somnathapura, Mysore. (Keshava Temple)

Whatever this means. I did not understand this postal message one for sure.

Somehow seeing these sculptures provides a mystic & often thought provoking outlook on my life. Located 180 kms from Bangalore (bengaluru) the last 20 kilometers is called 'pathetic'.

The road has some picturesque paddy and sugarcane fields. It will take an hour or so to just get there. Onward journey we had taken the Mysore road all the way to Maddur and then there are a couple of deviations to reach Somnathapur. Most hindu temples have erotic sculptures and depictions. According to Hinduism, sexuality and fertility are considered important. Hence, marriage(husband-wife relation) is given a lot of importance. However, with the new age laws and present day rituals of modern society; I would not be surprised that the younger generation place lesser importance to it.

There is a lake which also serves as a bird sanctuary. Our return journey was via talakadu and we took the NH via Kanakapura. This is a shorter route (150 kms) but not as good as the state highway to Mysore.

It is the best maintained temple I have ever seen in Karnataka. Other ASI sites should learn how to maintain and should serve as an example. Whoever is incharge deserves appreciation from the well kept and manicured lawns in front of the temple. Again "Well Done" in keeping the place the way it deserves to be kept.

Erotic depiction of everyday life. There are inscriptions engraved on a slab standing at the entrance, inside the temple, dated from 12th century that detail the construction and grants made to it.Reflecting the Hoysala style of architecture it has 3 sanctums and all connected. It is ornately carved temple of extraordinary craftsmanship.

The ceilings and door jambs to the sanctum sanctorium are exquisitely sculpted and noteworthy.

The ceilings depict according to the guide the different stages of budding of flowers and fruits.
There are 64 cells which were meant to house other demi gods engraved with precious stones but you will find that it only houses broken or disfigured images and sculptures which are all locked. Apparently the British had looted this place a long time ago. You could peek in though. With all the disfigurement the sculptures are magnificient.

The temple was built from softer soap stone which became harder from being exposed to the atmosphere. Thanks but no thanks to the British munificence who looted some sculptures and the original deities are with some collectors in Britain. If they are human they would return it to their original place. There is no Pooja (mangala arti) done in this temple because in Hindu tradition once a image is defaced or violated - in this case, thanks to the British; pooja is not done.
Carvings of everyday life, erotica, elephants in the bottom band, then horses, people (meaning epic stories), makaras {the makara is a mythical creature with the features of seven different animals, viz., the legs of lion, body of a pig, mouth of a crocodile, trunk of elephant, cow’s ears, monkey’s eyes and a peacock tail } and deities. It is star shaped and I would have loved to get a glimpse at a top angle.

The place is absolutely calm in and around the temple. Also, a newly built, elegant looking and much needed information centre is not yet opened. This has very good potential to be an UNESCO site. Just hope they take care of the garbage management once the road is done.

Hyun Tsangs visit to somanathapura in the sculptures.