Showing posts with label mysore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mysore. Show all posts

May 27, 2009

The Curse of Talakadu, Mysore.

The curse is as follows:

Let Thalakaadu become a land of sand,

Let the river at Maalangi turn into a whirlpool,

Let there be no sires to the Mysore kings।
Alemelamma before her death uttered this curse - Kannada version : “Talakadu managali, Malangi madwagali, Mysooru arasarige makkalu aagadirali”. Above is the translation and is very spooky in the video with link given below.
I do not know the intricate details about what happened. Though I will admit that it was the whirlpool that drew me to this ancient civilization buried in sand. This curse is one fascinating one and looks very real for all the reasons archaeologists hav not been able to explain convincingly.
For the time being it is the curse of the Govt of Karnataka by way of their upkeep of the state/district highways. Though Karnataka has a rich and ancient history the present government or previous governments seem like they do not have any stake in the tourism potential of the state. This is evident with the apathy by way of roads, amenities and information facilities to tourists.
Here is the Chola ring carved out of a single stone and in the past all four sides to the temple had it but due to constant hangin around and swinging on it they broke and only one is left. There is also a board that says do not touch the rings. :-)
There are no proper roads to talakadu and it is very close to Somanathapura (Hoysala architecture - grand 3rd temple)। Miah mow I was impressed with the sand that covers 10 sq km and buries around 30 odd temples. You can maybe solve the mystery of the curse and to start with - read all about the >scientific explanation .
Watch this video about talakaadu. It is on archaeology channel. If you were wondering why no one was bothering about the contract for sand mining - check this news out -- > Two lorries which were involved in sand mining were seized about a couple of days ago in Talakadu. It was found that a huge pipeline laid under water is used in extracting the sand. Voluntarily, we will going to High court after preparing the report, said Hegde.

May 26, 2009

Blissful Somnathapura, Mysore. (Keshava Temple)












Whatever this means. I did not understand this postal message one for sure.
Somehow seeing these sculptures provides a mystic & often thought provoking outlook on my life. Located 180 kms from Bangalore (bengaluru) the last 20 kilometers is called 'pathetic'.
The road has some picturesque paddy and sugarcane fields. It will take an hour or so to just get there. Onward journey we had taken the Mysore road all the way to Maddur and then there are a couple of deviations to reach Somnathapur. Most hindu temples have erotic sculptures and depictions. According to Hinduism, sexuality and fertility are considered important. Hence, marriage(husband-wife relation) is given a lot of importance. However, with the new age laws and present day rituals of modern society; I would not be surprised that the younger generation place lesser importance to it.

There is a lake which also serves as a bird sanctuary. Our return journey was via talakadu and we took the NH via Kanakapura. This is a shorter route (150 kms) but not as good as the state highway to Mysore.
It is the best maintained temple I have ever seen in Karnataka. Other ASI sites should learn how to maintain and should serve as an example. Whoever is incharge deserves appreciation from the well kept and manicured lawns in front of the temple. Again "Well Done" in keeping the place the way it deserves to be kept.
Erotic depiction of everyday life. There are inscriptions engraved on a slab standing at the entrance, inside the temple, dated from 12th century that detail the construction and grants made to it.Reflecting the Hoysala style of architecture it has 3 sanctums and all connected. It is ornately carved temple of extraordinary craftsmanship.
The ceilings and door jambs to the sanctum sanctorium are exquisitely sculpted and noteworthy.
The ceilings depict according to the guide the different stages of budding of flowers and fruits.
There are 64 cells which were meant to house other demi gods engraved with precious stones but you will find that it only houses broken or disfigured images and sculptures which are all locked. Apparently the British had looted this place a long time ago. You could peek in though. With all the disfigurement the sculptures are magnificient.
The temple was built from softer soap stone which became harder from being exposed to the atmosphere. Thanks but no thanks to the British munificence who looted some sculptures and the original deities are with some collectors in Britain. If they are human they would return it to their original place. There is no Pooja (mangala arti) done in this temple because in Hindu tradition once a image is defaced or violated - in this case, thanks to the British; pooja is not done.
Carvings of everyday life, erotica, elephants in the bottom band, then horses, people (meaning epic stories), makaras {the makara is a mythical creature with the features of seven different animals, viz., the legs of lion, body of a pig, mouth of a crocodile, trunk of elephant, cow’s ears, monkey’s eyes and a peacock tail } and deities. It is star shaped and I would have loved to get a glimpse at a top angle.
The place is absolutely calm in and around the temple. Also, a newly built, elegant looking and much needed information centre is not yet opened. This has very good potential to be an UNESCO site. Just hope they take care of the garbage management once the road is done.
Hyun Tsangs visit to somanathapura in the sculptures.

Mar 6, 2009

SriRangapatana Island

I call it the ghost town. The palace or actually the place where Tipu Sultan used to rest for a while before proceeding to his main palace is in good shape.

It is maintained properly but once you visit the palace you get a feeling that it could be better. The town itself is laid back and you get a feeling everything is in slow motion. We had visited it on a weekend and didnot find it crowded.

There are numerous paintings on the walls of the palace. The uniqueness is that eventhough it resembles a large mansion than a palace which it is not but portrayed as a palace is covered with all kinds of paintings showing the people who came to meet the sultan. It is largely open and I couldnot make out any toilets or bathrooms. So, it must have been used as a durbar(audience hall).
A kilometer from the palace you can also visit a couple of temples (sangam) where people perform the last rites of their beloved. The edges of the island are fertile obviously because of the cauvery. Above is a picture of the fields.

There are a couple of shops where you can get some snacks, coconut, and drink. The shops do not clean the place up and strangely there are no dustbins. Plastic is everywhere.

You could have a swim as some areas are not that deep. The locals who ply the buta boats will tell you where it is shallow and where it is deep. At the end of the island you can again see the confluence of the cauvery.

A fuller view of one side of the cauvery. Coconut water is very good here. For Rs.8-10/- you will get a nice big coconut. It is better to quench your thirst this way rather than go for a bottled soda which is polluting.

There is a cannon that had fallen through the roof when it was hit by another cannon ball into the dungeon where Tipu Sultan kept many english prisoners. They are doing up the place with grass on either side of the previous steps leading to the dungeon.

Here is a picture of the gate to delhi bridge. When you climb over the bridge you can see the soldiers have drilled several holes all along the wall pointing down. I am guessing that they were used during war to shoot arrows or fire at.
Although no one ventures near the obelisk there is a nice view at one end of the island. If you are lucky you get to see some nice birds.


The obelisk is a memorial and has all the names of the british officers who laid down their lives. Its interesting in its own way. It was built after a century I guess after Tipu's death.
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